A search on the web for “quiet computer” produces hundreds of thousands of hits, indicating that the problem is relevant not only to musicians but to anyone using a computer on a regular basis. So how do you go about silencing the beast?
Sources of noise
PC noise can mainly be attributed to three items: the power supply, the CPU cooler fan, and the hard drives. The first two items typically use fans for cooling, and these produce noise from the motor, from airflow and from vibrations.
Hard drives produce noise from the rotation of the platters inside as well as vibrations from the unit. Fans typically produce a “wwwwhishing” noise, while hard drives produce a “whining” noise as well as clicks.
And because most audio production computers have one drive for the system and least another one for the audio and library data, the noise adds up. In addition, cases that use small fans can also contribute to noise, since the fans have to run faster to move the required amount of air.
Silencing the boxes
The most important challenge is to provide adequate cooling for the computer and its components when you quiet the machine. There are a number of commercially available solutions to help quiet a loud computer.
Heat is generated from every component in your PC, and it needs to be dissipated in one way or another. For the do-it-yourselfer, here are some suggestions on how to decrease the noise level of a PC:
- Use hardware that is very efficient and does not produce excessive amounts of heat (processors, motherboards, power supplies, etc.);
- Use a case that offers large diameter fan options for front and rear air flow. Generally larger fans are quieter and move the required air necessary to keep the system chassis cool.
- Use processor heat sinks that utilize heat-pipe technology. Heatpipes work silently to transfer heat away from the processor.
- Use manual speed control case fans so you can adjust the chassis air flow.
- Cable your system as neatly as possible as to minimize air turbulence in the chassis.
So how do you make your systems quieter? If you have a boisterous PC, you must first determine which component(s) is making the most noise. An easy way to accomplish this is by using a cardboard core of a paper towel roll. Get close to the components, hold it up to your ear, and aim it at the various fans and drives. By doing this you can see which is the loudest and start there. Changing fans is fairly easy. It can be more challenging to change power supplies, but it’s certainly doable for anyone comfortable on the inside of a computer. Changing a CPU cooler is the most difficult, mainly because of the risks. If not done correctly, you can zap your CPU with static electricity or even burn it up due to poor installation techniques.
So when in doubt, get help or advice from a professional. Let’s start with case fans.
Case fans
As a rule, you want the biggest fan that your case can accommodate. Large 120mm fans can move more air at lower speeds than smaller 80 or 90mm fans, so change out your fans to the largest size that your case can accommodate.
Scythe Kaze Case Fan
Luckily, 120mm fans are now the norm in most tower systems. If the case includes a 120mm fan, odds are it is not the source of your noise. But listen carefully and if it making too much noise, consider changing it out.
To replace a case fan, you simply unplug it from the motherboard—the wires from the fan terminate into a connector that inserts into a socket on the motherboard. Unscrew it from the case, install a new fan, and plug it into the motherboard.
If the fan is a smaller unit and you have room for a 120mm fan, you might have to get a mounting bracket to accommodate the new size or you can drill screw holes in the case. Be extra careful of extra metal scraps during cleanup.
Not all fans are equal, so when choosing your new fan, choose a quiet one. Antec, Zalman, Nexus, and Papst are good choices for fan components. Their websites include fan specs that show fan noise vs. airflow. Pick a fan that provides the most airflow within a range of noise that you can tolerate.
Install a fan with at least two speeds and preferably three. This will allow you to modify the fan speed as needed. In a rack, for example, the upper system receives all of the heat that rises from the systems below it, and consequently you might need to crank up the case fan in that unit to provide adequate thermal protection.
Typically a quiet fan will produce 24-30 dB of noise. Most of these fans are quite cheap, so the investment is minimal.
Power supply
Zalman ZM600-HP Heatpipe Cooled 600W PSU
Unfortunately, the power supplies that come in most stock case are often loud. Quiet power supplies are available in the 20dB range. A bottom mounted fan, which pulls air out of your case, is the best for computer case airflow, is the most efficient design, and isolates sound away from you the best. In order to decrease the noise from a loud power supply, you have to change it. Changing out a PSU is a relatively easy thing to do, though harder than the case fan substitution.
Changing a supply involves removing the supply's 24-pin power cable assembly from the motherboard, unplugging the 4-pin connectors from the drives, and then unscrewing and removing the supply from the case. To reinstall the new PSU, fasten it to the case, plug the 4-pin connectors into the drives, and plug the 24-pin cable assembly to the motherboard.
CPU fans
The CPU fans are usually small and are often very loud. There are plenty of low noise options available.
Zalman's innovating CPU cooler
High quality construction and efficiency is a must in CPU coolers, so this is not a place to skimp. Most high-end CPU coolers employ copper and aluminum heat sync technology to move the heat away from the CPU and a large quiet fan to dissipate the heat from the copper tubing. Installation of these devices is specific to the product. Substituting the cooling mechanism on a CPU is sensitive, and is perhaps a process best left to a professional if you are at all hesitant. For those who want to try, follow scrupulous grounding protocol so that you don't introduce static electricity into the CPU and/or motherboard. And proper use of thermal compound, which transfers heat from the CPU to the cooler, is a must.
Whether you do it yourself or have a professional help you, substituting a small CPU fan with a larger cooler can make a big difference in the noise level of your system
For the more adventuresome, there are liquid cooled products that remove heat using liquid coolant. One solution that gamers have been using is CoollT Systems' Freezone CPU Cooler. This is a self-contained product that comes already plumbed and ready to install. The system consists of a special liquid heat sink that mounts on the CPU. This sink is attached to tubes of chilled liquid coolant, which are connected to a box that mounts in the back of the case in lieu of a regular case fan. The system provides incredible cooling power with a low noise level. There is one drawback: it lists for $400.
Cases
Antec's Sonata III Quiet Case
You can modify your computer case for an even better result by installing acoustic material inside the case to help dampen noise. Several manufacturers including Nexus, Acoustiproducts, and Antec make these products, which are foam-based and usually include an acoustic barrier made of a different mass than the foam. Crommets for reducing vibrations from hard drives are also available.
Drives
Hard drives are notorious for high pitched, irritating noise. Streaming sampling has mandated our use of fast drives, and these produce more noise than slower ones. Even so, great streaming results can be produced from 7200 RPM drives in lieu of 10,000 RPM drives, which are much noisier.
Maxtor and Western Digital drives are known for their reliability, and both companies produce several drives with silent features and decibel ratings of about 26-28 dB. These drives are almost silent when mounted in a good case, except for any noise that is produced from vibrations from the drive itself.
If your system is going to be out in the open in your studio, you might consider installing the drive in a noise dampening enclosure. These reduce noise by about 4dB, which for most drives results in about half the noise of the original drive. And there are grommet kits that provide rubber insulation that reduces the vibration of the drives.
Another interesting solution is to mount your 3.5" hard drive in an empty 5 1/2" drive bay using special mounts. These greatly reduce vibration while providing ample airflow around the unit.
Conclusions
So where does the DIY'er find products like these? There are several companies that specialize in helping users silence their PCs. For technical information, extensive unbiased reviews on fans, drives, cases, supplies, and other components and a knowledge base and forum, SilentPCreview.com is a great source for anyone interested in the subject.
When possible it is better to start with a quiet computer, instead of having to isolate and change components. Companies that build audio workstations have a responsibility to make sure that they use the quietest components possible. If you use an "off-the-shelf system or a system that is too noisy, changing the components can help.
In addition there are a few more ways to keep your computer quiet:
- If possible, leave PCI Slot 1 empty so that a built-in graphic card can have more circulation. This makes your fans not work as hard.
- Vacuum out the dust from the air intake vents on the case from time to time.
- Make sure that all parts of the system are screwed down tight.
- Make sure that the removable sides or top of the case do not vibrate.
- Make sure that your wiring is neat, and make judicious use of wire ties.
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